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Fashion is like that one friend who lives away and, even after calling her every day, you
feel as though she’s always living a new life and you can never catch up with her. Maybe
a little far off from the topic, but to me, an on-point analogy either way. It’s a glitter-filled
world, at least to those blind enough to think it. You really have to love it to live it,
if you know what I mean.
Even in a sad industry like this one, very few events have taken the world on like the
Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. For years, it was the pinnacle of glamour, the Formula
One of heels and lingerie. I remember being little and watching the whole forty minutes
of it without missing a single girl. The year Blanca Padilla was on it, I felt the same way I
do when I see Chris Hemsworth with Elsa Pataky, proud to be Spanish.
Whatever the case may be, it was filled with controversy, and lots of it. After many years
absent and millions of hearts crushed, VS made a comeback this past week. But I
wouldn’t like to say this is a return; it’s more of a reinvention.
From the rise to stardom and EPIC fall, are we at the stage of hopeful resurgence?
The rise of the biggest fashion empire
The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Shows came to play in 1995, becoming nothing short of a
cultural phenomenon. Starting out as a simple lingerie show like any other, it quickly
rose to fame and became a yearly cultural event. It no longer had anything simple to do
with it: the best models, over the top costumes, and appearances from the most
acclaimed music performers like Maroon 5, Ariana Grande, Taylor Swift... Up until 2018,
it was the pinnacle of fashion and beauty, defining beauty standards for a whole
generation.
The models lucky enough to be ambassadors for the brand shortly became household
names, we’re talking Tyra Banks, Adriana Lima, Heidi Klum—you name it. The brand
was no longer lingerie; it was luxury and wings, glitter, and fantasy bras created by
jewelers and sold for millions of dollars. At its peak, it was basically a showcase of
essentially tall, thin, and perfect women; somehow both aspirational and controversial.
A fashion empire plummeting to shame
Society shifts their attitude extremely quickly, and this was no exception; what once
seemed so glamorous and dreamlike slowly became out of touch and, honestly, a little
strange. Women no longer felt represented or inspired, and what was once an
aspiration of sorts became tiring, very fast.
A harsh turning point was the #MeToo movement, a body positivity campaign calling for
greater diversity in the fashion industry; this put Victoria’s Secret at the very center of
the problem. They were quickly criticized for promoting unhealthy beauty standards
and objectifying women. A year later, in 2019, things hadn’t changed much, and
viewership of the shows declined while criticism rose. The Victoria’s Secret Fashion
Show was cancelled. Ed Razek, at the time chief marketing officer, made extremely
controversial comments about trans and plus-sized models; he stated in an interview
with Vogue that “Victoria’s Secret has no plans to include transgender or plus-sized
models in the show; it’s intended as a fantasy, and we won’t be including models that
don’t align with the brand’s image.” (Razek resigned from his job shortly after, a win on
the humanity side of things, I guess.) It seemed that the era of the angels was over.
A time of reflection and correction
The cancellation of the show marks a period of transformation and reflection for the
brand. Was it for money? Did they ever actually want to change? We may never know.
Whatever the case may be, the brand began to change their image. Introducing diverse
models, expanding size ranges, and staying away from hypersexualizing women for
marketing ploys that had once defined them so very clearly.
To explain it simply, the company was no longer focused on the male fantasy;
everything revolved around female empowerment and celebrating women. This fresh
perspective came with new leadership.
It came to a point where this newfound diversity and inclusion felt almost “too pushy."
Last year, in 2023, the brand tried to do the same thing as this year: bring back the
fashion shows. However, this completely distorted the image we once had; this was no
longer what we knew and loved, but almost an extravaganza of sorts. Would it be right
to say that it was almost too inclusive? What I mean is, it wasn’t really the place, sort of
an exaggeration of what viewers wanted, almost a mockery if you will.
A well-deserved reinvention
However, what is meant to be always returns, and that is exactly what they did this past
week. Listening to what the fans wanted, a reimagined show promised inclusivity and
representation while keeping that angel-like feeling that we all wanted. They aimed to
maintain that balance between fantasy and real beauty that was missing back in the
day.
And that was, to a certain extent, exactly what we lived. Some of the most iconic faces
of the brand were back to bring back the glory of what the shows once were. With model
Gigi Hadid being the first to walk, I remember feeling exactly what I did a few years ago:
admiration. As per Business of Fashion, Victoria’s Secret shares rose nearly 7% the
following day; on social media, there was a 5000% increase in mentions from the
month prior. We can say that the production paid off.
I’m sure Ed Razek won’t be happy with this, but everyone else is, so a sad man is a win
in my books. For the first time in VS history, trans models walked the runway. Valentina
Sampaio and Alex Consani walked the show, making history while doing it. Also, plus
sizes were displayed by the beautiful Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser.
In my opinion, the challenge for the brand was to maintain that it-factor that made the
brand so iconic in the 2000s while still embracing that authenticity that we all wanted. It
dazzled without objectifying and celebrated without judgement. To me, this balancing
act reflected how big the change is going to be in the fashion industry. This set a big
standard for how legacy brands adapt in today’s society.
Although there was so much that was new and changed, some of the most iconic faces
of the brand were sure to not miss this. Most of them coming back being mothers;
nothing stopped them from showing off just exactly why they were considered angels in
the first place.
The road ahead isn’t easy, and no matter the sentiment, the show accomplished
exactly what it wanted, although still missing a few things. Hopefully everything will be
bigger and sparklier next year. We have unveiled this new dream, and one thing is clear:
we aren’t the same people that we were before we watched this, and neither are they.
And perhaps that’s exactly the point—to reinvent ourselves just as they have. In
reinventing itself, Victoria’s Secret is helping reshape the world and how we view
women’s bodies.
Bibliography:
https://www.businessoffashion.com/briefings/retail/did-a-blast-from-the-past-put-
victorias-secret-on-track-for-the-future/
https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/fashion/dancing-a-fine-line-victorias-secrets-
runway-return-straddles-fantasy-and-reality
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